The village of Soma Soma on Gnau Island was a cultural stopover during my recent “live-aboard” scuba diving trip in the Republic of Fiji. The colours, sounds, and tastes of Soma Soma are simply unforgettable.

As we drew near the island in our tender, we could hear the cheerful welcome song of the villagers. We disembarked from the boat, and were swept away by the colourful clothing and the boundless enthusiasm with which the people greeted us. The village elders formally welcomed our little group with freshly made lai’s that they draped around our necks.

A brief tour of the village revealed 120 inhabitants living in 24 dwellings made up of corrugated steel and woven bamboo mats. A community hall, a church and a kindergarten were the only other structures. Two homes had generators, the rest had kerosene lamps for light.

We were honoured by participating in a Kava Ceremony lead by the Chief. The sharing of kava is a traditional Fijian social event. Kava is made from the bare root of a pepper tree, pounded into a fine powder and then mixed with fresh water. Each guest in turn is offered a bilo, a small bowl made from half of a coconut, containing the liquid. We clapped before and after drinking. The muddy fluid had a woody bitter taste and after four bowls my lips went numb.

The children of Soma Soma were absolutely delightful as they earnestly tried to show us their best traditional dances, while three generations of family members sang in the background. The Warrior dance was an impressive display of virile energy.

Mingling and chatting with the locals after the kava and dancing, I was struck by the simplicity of their lives. They fish and grow most of their own food. There are no roads and all transport is via boat. At the age of six, the children are sent away to boarding schools. Exports of kava root and other produce generate some revenue.

I wonder is it in spite of or because of this basic existence that the villagers seemed quite happy and healthy.  Does simplicity lead to happiness? In today’s world is it possible to achieve a natural balance between needs and wants, natural and/or manufactured, a simple life vs the progress of civilization?

And where / how do I fit in …